Monday 3 October 2016

As "Street Style" has lost its meaning and power


Hidden Spring / Summer 2017 collection. (Jonas Gustavsson / MCV Photo of The Washington Post)

PARIS - There is no such thing as street style. Not now.

Oh, of course there are always photographers at fashion shows tickets here, backpacks, beating passers-by, in an attempt to capture call the style in their natural habitat. - Women and most patients are women - traipsing here and there outputs for picture package. Sometimes they look directly into the camera, and sometimes feign indifference. But the reality is that very little of what was advertised as "street style" is actually de-la-street, was born and raised.

These looks are not organically crafted. They are not wild. And photographers are not the same mode of foraging. Much of what we see fashion crowd on the street, is simply placed advertising brands well - if the garment itself or the bloggers the door. It is fully tamed.


Maison Margiela Spring / Summer 2017 collection. (Marcelo Soubhia / MCV Photo Washington Post)

Maison Margiela Spring / Summer 2017 collection. (Raymond Chan / MCV Photo of The Washington Post)

Maison Margiela Spring / Summer 2017 collection. (Raymond Chan / MCV Photo of The Washington Post)

Today we have to think that the street style - low-end athletic, Serendipity, multi-cultural - offered in the care of the historic both Christian Dior and Margiela House now reflects. It is white and cooks - labels for both designer for LVMH Price vied back and forth.

And in particular it is in Balenciaga. Designer Demna Gvasalia played a role in the blur and blur the lines between the street style, as was always the views and more rarefied the workshop. As part of the team clothing, an era of ugly silhouettes began great and helped transform this mundane products as logo shirt for express mail giant DHL in coveted fashion items.

In 2015 he was appointed creative director of Balenciaga Gvasalia - one of the finest houses of fashion history. He took his subversive tendencies at him with deep respect for the experience of the brand. Jackets are structured with broad shoulders over large and beyond the scope of hyperbole and distortion for the spring. No life is like gussied flotation devices. Florals and bold teeter on the edge of delicious shrill.


Balenciaga Spring / Summer 2017 collection. (Jonas Gustavsson / MCV Photo of The Washington Post)

Balenciaga Spring / Summer 2017 collection. (Jonas Gustavsson / MCV Photo of The Washington Post)

Balenciaga Spring / Summer 2017 collection. (Jonas Gustavsson / MCV Photo of The Washington Post)

Gvasalia was inspired by fetishes. It is used to make spandex leggings stripes. He created with a layer of latex, the lustful fantasy of sex toys. And with a variety of accessory sets made with extravagant crystal studs file out of the house. Cristobal Balenciaga, the founder of it - actually met.


A shopping bag High -. End Balenciaga Spring / Summer 2017 collection. (Jonas Gustavsson / MCV Photo of The Washington Post)

Models oversized bags are also used. Some seemed a portable tuffet and other final versions of shopping bags nylon appeared to be business.

[What - what happens when Balenciaga designs for ordinary people]

All the different elements that are defined once the style of the street now the biggest source of inspiration fashion high. June Takahashi secret Margiela and John Galliano, especially dazzling and inspiring way were integrated. But sometimes elegant embrace, is inexpensive and easy stapled a bourgeois brand with a little danger for a woman with a feel a little more to revive existence in contact spoils. It is to buy a new attempt.


Junya Watanabe Spring / Summer 2017 collection. (Jonas Gustavsson / MCV Photo of The Washington Post)

Junya Watanabe Spring / Summer 2017 collection. (Jonas Gustavsson / MCV Photo of The Washington Post)

Junya Watanabe Spring / Summer 2017 collection. (Jonas Gustavsson / MCV Photo of The Washington Post)

Commendably, took Junya Watanabe look the hard-edged punk rockers and street scene artists and Berlin combined with a fireworks display of geometric construction, which has long been part of his repertoire. the hair of his models was molded tips in Mohawk and bright, and stomped on the track as Nine Inch Nails, the audience inside the Palais de Tokyo shook at 9:30 am on Saturday morning, if certainly not true wake Punk and functional.

Watanabe was a presentation of courage, mix design with souvenir shirts Confidence with very individual coats, leather pants and tops that have mentioned the mental giant hedgehog.


Junya Watanabe Spring / Summer 2017 collection. (Jonas Gustavsson / MCV Photo of The Washington Post)

Takahashi also used music as an inspiration for his collection shadow, but he chose jazz - a genre once suberversive melodic punk is. His collection baggy trousers, jackets and wide-leg adorned with a collage of textures are Birkenstocks used style slippers or combined.


Hidden Spring / Summer 2017 collection. (Jonas Gustavsson / MCV Photo of The Washington Post)

Hidden Spring / Summer 2017 collection. (Jonas Gustavsson / MCV Photo of The Washington Post)

Hidden Spring / Summer 2017 collection. (Jonas Gustavsson / MCV Photo of The Washington Post)

[Photo style street fashion is in crisis. Karl-Edwin Guerra could be your savior.]

As designers have adopted sweatpants, sneakers, T-shirts and sweatshirts, they found, also the high-end couture formality-unpleasant and stuffy. Fashion has to wear more relevant to daily life and more enjoyable. But it made the same customer loyal to raise an eyebrow at the idea of ​​a T-shirt design for sale, which was set as a masterpiece magic way to adapt.


Junya Watanabe Spring / Summer 2017 collection. (Jonas Gustavsson / MCV Photo of The Washington Post)

Paco Rabanne Spring / Summer 2017 collection. (Raymond Chan / MCV Photo of The Washington Post)

These feelings must echo surely talking about the first jeans. But we all know how that turned out: Consumers have shown their willingness to pay a premium for its designer and Calvin justify the price of a wide range of crisis, washed, denim styles ads enticing.

But the street style is nothing more than a pair of jeans; There is a sensitivity - a reference. Not only workers or musicians borrowed something or dealer. Street Style was like an answer to the decrees of formalized design houses.


Fashion Mall. Cooks Spring / Summer 2017 collection. (Raymond Chan / MCV Photo of The Washington Post)

If clothing DHL presents his shirt that read as a comment on this burning the values ​​of culture and why. It was a smart business, but it was also a business option that goes against the current. But aesthetics are funny are coveted fashion. Gvasalia landed Balenciaga. Clothing and showed the page Couture. - The "form the most highfalutin way it was apparently subversive This was taken up in the ivory tower -. Or merged at least an appendix to everything.

Abloh, OFFWHITE including tag sets fashion men's jackets graffiti tagged army, sweater and pants, showed off her clothing line for women on Thursday night to an audience with Kanye West, Frank Ocean and several Kardashians. And as expected, the collection of shirts and pants cool-girl covers nervous.

but Abloh also showed the kind of ruffles, frilly dresses, which can be found in some dusty shop Upper East Side. What they have to do with the "street style" conversation, so cautious? Fashion changes. Then connect debutant skirt with a hoodie and same call modern.


Off White Collection Spring / Summer 2017. (Raymond Chan / MCV Photo of The Washington Post)

Off White Collection Spring / Summer 2017. (Raymond Chan / MCV Photo of The Washington Post)

Off White Collection Spring / Summer 2017. (Raymond Chan / MCV Photo of The Washington Post)

And as it is a brand like chefs called, with sweatshirts and T-shirts designed by Chris Kocher, who is also the artistic director of Lemarié, the fashion house Chanel housing boom?

Kocher their brand roots in the "real" Paris. Previously, he presented his collection on a dirt road of drug addicts frequented; this season, they have opted for a chaotic shopping mall in the heart of the city, where buyers disgorged escalators in the middle of his show were found.

Look closely and you will see that your clothes are very well made, with fine fabrics and fancy ornaments. But walk a few steps, they seem completely at ease in the midst of the current food and selling container.


Cooks Spring / Summer 2017 collection. (Raymond Chan / MCV Photo of The Washington Post)

Cooks Spring / Summer 2017 collection. (Raymond Chan / MCV Photo of The Washington Post)

Cooks Spring / Summer 2017 collection. (Raymond Chan / MCV Photo of The Washington Post)

It is optimistic to think that this mode change is good. If everyone wears sweatshirts, maybe with the tribal walls fall time. But in the meantime, it feels like in some poses deteriorated fashion more pretending and State.

Fashion has always been associated with the state, but it was also something more: the unique and wonderful nature of the clothing. It was not only to sing: I can afford, can afford, Dior was really exceptionally easy Dior is now your underwear fantasy show .. Dior.


Logo Under - clothing. Christian Dior Spring / Summer 2017 collection. (Olivier Claisse / MCV Photo)

Somewhere, far away from the slopes of this city there are species -a co-opted. Looks, which started by designers looking for inspiration or considered the employer neighborhood looking not serve as ambassadors for the general public. The views are personal - maybe even thoughtful or provocative.

Call subversive. Call idiosyncratic. Call it coincidence.

But all that was on the catwalks of spring 2017 - Instagrammed and circus that accompanies it - is simply the normal mode.

Also at the Paris Fashion Week:

Bronze metal, bubble gum pink, cherry red: A Haider Ackermann, color is rich and complex

Fencing jackets tulle skirts, Dior provides many ways to dress a feminist

These delicate, swirling clothes Rick Owens are a breath of pure emotion

No, seriously: A great white shirt is everything you want in the next spring, if fashion has its way

Rihanna has opened the way to a new position. It was crazy - but not bad.

With a woman on top, Lanvin jumps very well a year of chaos

Nipple in the footsteps of Saint Laurent? But wait, there's a story here.

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