Monday 27 June 2016

RIP Bill Cunningham, photographer champion and sponsor of Street Style

Bill Cunningham, who died at 87, the game and the type of schmoozing and rich - but he was more of the enthusiasm and street style employed.

In Valentine's Day at its headquarters in the Meatpacking District, Diane von Furstenberg fashion show held its Week New York.

Brought Beautiful People with champagne glasses in circulation, DVF (disclosure: the Designer Barry Diller is married, the Chairman of the IAC, the parent company of The Daily Beast is) their own mini - Festival Dummy - Disco was on the floor, Kendall Jenner, Gigi Hadid , Karlie Kloss, Jourdan Dunn, Lily Aldridge, and Irina Shayk.

At the bottom of the stairs DVF headquarters Bill Cunningham New York Times, a blue padded winter coat and cotton pants wearing customary holds the 35 - mm - camera was.

He took pictures of the famous recording and very pretty nimble to avoid the accident to the best picture to get a radiant smile in alternation with the concentration of small eyes.

Forget all wobbly mannequins and fashion popular: Cunningham, not only stars of the fashion world, but in New York was the center of attention of the night, and was surrounded by people who offer their greetings and hugs. It seemed as if he would rather just go to work.

It was photographed and adored, jumping as much as the people he photographed.

On Saturday it was announced that the beloved Cunningham died 87 years after a stroke. An eloquent and detailed obituary in the New York Times of Jacob Bernstein summarizes the many achievements Cunningham, no less - in 2009 - to have made ​​a sign of being out of the New York Landmarks Conservancy.

It was seen a bit Cunningham at work, parties or fashion shows or on the road.

In my pictures of Cunningham that night on the question of DVF, for example, Cunningham knows that people see, but his expression - and their resistance is - shows that he preferred to go to work, which has a name: the literature fashion and fashion, or what he thinks those things are.

Cunningham could slip on a bicycle in the city, do everything possible to get the perfect shot, and often get on the 5th Avenue and 57th Street photograph later in 'on the road' in section column styles appear over time. (Galas and chic evening events took place in the "hours in the afternoon.")

Dean Baquet, editor of the New York Times, told the Daily Beast that Cunningham had a stroke, "He can not -. I know that 10 days worked very well until - no."

Bernstein told the Daily Beast that tremendous work ethic Cunningham continued until it was underway. "In the last six months, he visited three or four events in one night, he came to the office and was greeted with:" Hello children. "There was a group of people who loved him. He worked all the way until the end."

Stuart Emmrich, the editor of the section of types of the New York Times, the Daily Beast said, "Bill, a leading figure in the world of fashion, but with humility and generosity of spirit remarkable.

"Once, when Chanel gave me inexplicably better fit, he asked timidly if I change places, so it would be able to photograph the track.

"I said," Of course, "and after we exchanged places, he looked at me, smiled and took my picture This was the highlight of my time as editor of styles .."

Cunningham was photographed a true ascetic, simplicity and frugality of his life in direct contrast to the glamor and super rich.

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As Bernstein wrote in his wonderful eulogy: .. "It is not to go the movies, do not have a television, breakfast most days at the Star Deli stadium at West 55th Street, where a cup of coffee and a sausage, egg and cheese ate I could do until recently, for less than $. 3

"He lived until 2010 in a previous study of the Carnegie Hall amid rows of filing cabinets, where he kept all his negatives. He slept in a bed, a shower in a shared bathroom and asked why spent years checks in magazines like Details ( Annie Flanders, the 1982 Introduction helped in) tears, he said: "the cheapest money, which is freedom and freedom is the most expensive. ".

Bernstein told the Daily Beast "Bill had no financial motivation, he works was just interested."

Cunningham was independent, Bernstein wrote in his obituary, until an accident in 1994, Cunningham was hit by a truck while on a bicycle - ". A matter of insurance" and joined the staff Times, said he was

Born and raised in Boston, when a young man Cunningham left Harvard. He made women's hats, contrary to involve the efforts of his parents in advertising.

He worked also called for a tailor Chez Ninon luxury. Cunningham was wearing colored at the funeral of her husband John F. Kennedy red Balenciaga black suit Jackie Kennedy.

In journalism, Cunningham worked briefly for John Fairchild of Women for daily use, before going on to - on which was better - Yves Saint -. Laurent and Andre Courreges (Cunningham, she thought, and it was killed a room at Fairchild Courreges wrote about.)

"I have not really an encyclopedic knowledge of fashion have," Bernstein said. "He was a nice guy, but it was not misleading when it came to style."

When Cunningham worked in the New York office of The Chicago Tribune, photographer David Montgomery was a camera it. Montgomery Council was: "It is used as a laptop."

In early 1970 began Cunningham its legendary Street - style to take pictures for the New York Times.

"It's really the great explosion of street style," Bernstein said. "All those who have a great debt to him today." With anonymous, attractive or flashy people who conquered the streets of New York had "only a brief exchange" before the gorge, says Bernstein. "He wanted the camera to know without asking."

It was not as interested in the famous Cunningham, but those with the style - or style that he found interesting, and could famous or not, whether rich or not. The red carpet was too predictable a tennis Cunningham.

As Bernstein Daily Beast said: "He was a true advocate of diversity and had a very good eye, he has all photographed everywhere, white, black, rich and not rich.."

In 1968, a project eight years Cunningham's architecture neglected neighborhoods began "and link with the remarkable patterns that have their companies defined capture," said Justin Jones, has the Daily Beast.

"Fits tailored to each of personalities of the leader as Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney-founder of the Whitney Museum of American Art and Mrs. JP Morgan Jr., the flamboyant architecture of their families, the acquisition, such as buildings affected fashion time" Jones writes.

The series entitled Bill Cunningham: facades, at the New York Historical Society in 2014 issued.

But it was to see his love, and stroke, fashion Transit Cunningham was the most famous and popular for.

In Daily Beast in 2010, Philip Gefter said documentary producer Bill Cunningham New York, as the speed of his bike Cunningham overcame two energy the youngest filmmaker of the documentary.

It was in this film that Anna Wintour said: "We all dress for Bill, I'm just a" fired photographed rich and famous Cunningham Gefter city Cunningham all the applause rained upon him .. "trick" he said the crew, but thought Gefter a cover so that they can preserve their own independence.

Gefter Cunningham remembers down swore by the paparazzi to Catherine Deneuve after an event. She has no interest in him, he said, because she had nothing interesting.

"He wants to be nothing more than being able to be on the street and to look forward, waiting to see what someone with" wrote Gefter. "Period At the same time, it is deeply suspicious that Harvard -.. Made and considered dropout both times in wider coverage of the paper context"

Gefter, a former picture editor at the Times, wrote that Cunningham was embarrassing polite to an employee of the newspaper delivery, was an editor of the section. Best fights were with art publishers, who thought they were known better images are displayed on the page.

assigned Cunningham person "to go and see women on the street with pink scarf, for example," Gefter wrote. "The Neverending trends do you see either bags or Leopard backless summer dresses or white leather boots only that, but to observe."

As for his personal life, Bill Cunningham New York, Cunningham did not answer the question whether he gay or not directly, but he never said a romantic relationship in your life.

Bernstein wondered if Cunningham photos are not "acts of sublimation" of some kind - looking romantic and personal, including through their photographic passions.

often seemed frustrated by people approaching him as a celebrity - - have also learned something Wintour favorite topics, can be the most effective tool was a mystery, whether you are famous, especially in these times anyway, Cunningham said more exhibitors.

Bernstein laughed social events together visit Cunningham remembering where "feeling undoubtedly come like an idiot when I was 10, 20, 30 years. He was extremely low for certain charities."

In a 2013 lovingly and sincerely attempt in New York celebrated Dan Shaw "big gay heart" Cunningham chronic, celebrating and defending by their images of gay life much less publicly, both visible, either by their collectors AIDS financed images or objects, such as the fire island, written at a time when the word "gay" was not included in the New York times.

Cunningham photographed drag queens from the center, long before the track had its march into the mainstream and types shirtless buff in parades pride. Shaw writes that Cunningham, in this sense, a brave, quiet pioneer was - well what it once again, made Shaw Map of Valentine pictures of her cut off and her boyfriend at the time.

On Saturday, in a letter to the Times - reporter, editor Baquet wrote: "Dear Colleagues, as you know, Bill Cunningham, an icon in the fashion world and a good member - loved our time family killed in. was a familiar sight in the city, and a warm presence in our newsroom smiling.

"I suspect that if the negative one put on the market after another, would tell a vivid visual history of the city, worked on the social street fashion elite. Bill until a few days ago, when he stroke have suffered. We will miss you much. Even if the agreements were not, I'm sure there will be a time to celebrate his life and journalism in the coming days. "

In another interview Baquet the Daily Beast Cunningham said: "It was one of the guys I had a very ethical man who spent time with the richest and most elegant people in New York and do not let him was completely humble .., and if see their photos, which are not only images from a tributary of New York. it is a kind of journey is around the city.

"There are people of all colors, shapes, income. I just think he loved people and loved fashion and it showed in his pictures. He was just a remarkable character. He was one of the names that not only did the world fashion, but as far as I am concerned, was one of the leading names in the New York Times ".

Baquet lives in Greenwich Village, "and I think he (Cunningham) seen almost every weekend to photograph the market wandering the farmers and then I see on Madison Avenue take pictures," he told the Daily Beast.

"It was a figure, whining to his bike, funny man, surprisingly warm. It was to be a time in an event and my wife, it was rare for me in one of these events with me and the next day my desk was a image that it has of us. Only a decent man is smooth.

"I think if someone could set up all your pictures, their refusal over the years, would simply be a real visual portrait of New York's history be."

Or, as the Gefter in his units 2010 Daily Beast wrote: "His tremendous achievement (Cunningham) is that there is an obsession with the clothes in a challenging chronicle of the junction of fashion and society in New York in the half - century ".

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