Catchy captures the daily
Credit Bill Cunningham / The New York Times
This is the era of street style, a time when we talk about "the issue outside the show": people waiting by the growing hordes of snapper on the sidewalk Shooting always exaggerated dress to be photographed required to the amount of peacocking to keep and give them their 15 minutes or seconds the honor. Go to a fashion show and you a woman or a man in a colorful, eccentric get-up, invaded by photographers compete to see the best image and reputation: And: "Who" Mira - "What are you wearing?" Lemmings in the country looking-me.
But Bill Cunningham, who started it all, has never been among them.
Ever since his death, on Saturday, many monuments and hagiographies that have circulated on the Internet called Bill (I can not Mr. Cunningham call as I know, and pressed him to fashion banks for too long) the father of street style, and rightly so. But a more accurate way to think of him as someone that the principles of visual journalism fashion could be applied.
He began his career as a journalist, after all, and his photographs were just another expression of the same discipline has not been filtered, airbrush or staging.
It was one of the first to recognize the value of the observation that people use in their daily lives, and understand that it was a reflection of identity and culture, a means of communication of all used, so a historical record of crucial Importance. Before it was Scott Schuman, aka "The Sartorialist" or Tommy Ton and Phil Oh, it was not Bill, to report on his bicycle, about what he saw: the peculiarity and the ever-present, but especially honest.
About Bill Cunningham
His theme was not what was done to get his attention, but what the people had to feel part of the group, or from the group to stand out, or other telegraphic way in the world - whether an organization for charity ball socialite or a popular shopping street corner, whatever. Anna Wintour, editor of Vogue, was often quoted as saying, is very good and authentic feel "Everything we get dressed for Bill." - Fashion and society are covered by women, to be photographed whose dream of Bill, and making them their image take a coveted title was - but the truth is, I would not want anyone to understand, wanted to dress and registration. how they dressed themselves.
She dressed the part. He created there years uniforms, calculated to take the image (larger): jacket, khaki pants and sneakers with a blue French workers. He spoke loudly proclaim: "This is not me." But he was in his eye.
He taught me (his paintings taught me) that everything was interesting on the podium, which is what happened to the clothes - how they are used or not - that counted. It was not that he refused fashion; I loved her with an endless enthusiasm for the discovery. But he realized that his power was personal. Clothes are the first line of communication; they are the first thing we say to the other, and the first study that has in turn. That was his story. And that is why his videos and columns were so obsessively interesting.
Harold Koda, former director of the Institute of clothing the Metropolitan Museum of Art, once told me that the debate about whether fashion was for the museum was solved when the forces began to see fashion as a decorative art depicting attitudes and habits - to beauty, craft and society - at a given moment in time. This belief has led the bill, which now includes thousands of images a valuable portrait of the popular identity in the late 20th and 21st century casualization of life has been taken to increase ribbon causes, the emergence of the "it" bag and the problem global warming (What you wear to do when it was in January and snow in April?).
Street Style has a game increasingly become a substitute at least one and revelation as marketing, with the shipment of the stars popular clothing featuring a theory carry plans Style - clothes that note not be selected but it was given (or even carry an additional charge). In the same way that the red carpet has become a vehicle for advertising, so too have many walkways. Bill was the truth behind it.
His legacy is our reality, and we must not be forgotten.
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